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Knowing the ropes - staying safe with crevasse rescue online
It was 36 days, 1900 km of ski touring, about 90,000 m of ascent, and three times harder than anything 37-year-old Mark Smiley has ever done in the mountains.
The 2018 Red Bull Der Lange Weg (The Long Way) took everything he and his wife Janelle had in the tank. Plus some. The world’s longest ski tour from Vienna, Austria across the Alps to Nice, France started on March 17 and finished on April 26. Only seven athletes started, only five finished, including Mark and Janelle, who became the first woman to do so.
Their average moving time was 10.5 hours a day. They covered about 32 km a day and burned 12,000 calories everyday. No amount of Wiener schnitzel and potato dumplings could fill the hole. “It was insane,” Mark says back in the comfort of his own home in Jackson Hole, Wyoming.
The mountains have been Mark’s happy place since he first laid eyes on them as a kid. “I remember going on a family skiing trip when I was 11 and driving down Interstate Highway 70, which has big mountains on either side, and I was like, ‘why hasn’t anyone told me about this before now? I’ve been jipped!‘” After that he moved from the farming plains of Indiana, where he grew up, out to the Rocky Mountains. He’s been there ever since.
He and Janelle have attempted all of America’s 50 classic climbs, and have been successful on 48 of them. It’s took them seven years to get that far.
“No one has climbed all of them. We were trying to become the first,” Mark says. “Now I’m more psyched about combining technical climbing with technical skiing. The combination of the two is cutting edge. If I can get in both on a trip then I’m winning!”
Mark started mountain guiding 17 years ago, and has been doing it pro for five years. With many teachers in his family it’s not surprising he enjoys educating and empowering people in the outdoors. “I treat the people I guide like partners, rather than risks,” he says. “The best teachers can teach without the pupil feeling like they’re being taught.”
It was a logical next step for him to combine his knowledge and passion for outdoor education with his filmmaking skills. He recently produced an online video course on Crevasse Rescue for the Modern Climber, and it’s proving popular.
“This course is like a seat belt,” Mark says. “You wear a seat belt even though you probably won’t actually need it.
“Most of the time out there it‘s fine, but when you need it, you really need that rescue knowledge. Especially in the US, it could be days before someone else comes along and finds you. It’s crucial to be self-sufficient.”
“I‘ve spent 300 days on glaciers and have never fallen in. The chances of needing to use these rescue skills are pretty low. But when you need them, they’re suddenly super important.”
Mark is clear the course doesn’t replace in-person learning in the field. He says it’s always better if people can come out and do a three-day course with him, and drill the skills so they become muscle memory. However, the online course has some advantages.
“Online learning has limitations, but the benefits outweigh them,” he says. “You can rewind it, pause it, play it 100 times. You can’t do that in person. So if you’re a slow learner you can watch it until you get it. If you want to hire me for the day, it’s $600, plus travel, plus time away from work. So, for many people, this course is more accessible.”
He encourages people to try the course and if they don’t learn anything he offers a full money back guarantee. The course offers the latest, cutting-edge ways of carrying out crevasse rescue.
As a taster, Mark offers three tips:
1. "Tie butterfly knots every three or four meters apart in your rope between each two people. The butterfly knot acts like a boat anchor and it will drag the victim to a stop and potentially hold all of the victim's body weight."
2. "Buy a Petzl Micro Traxion and know how to use it. They’re a game changer."
3. "Getting yourself out of crevasse is five times faster than waiting for your buddy to haul you out. Have a good plan about how to get yourself out."
Mark is offering Suunto.com readers 20 % off the course price until July 22, 2018. The promo code is: suuntoclimb. Watch or download the course here.
All images are from Red Bull Der Lange Weg and taken by Philipp Reiter and Christian Gamsjäger. ©Red Bull Content Pool
Kilian Jornet – Running 30's
“I had a big accident four years ago and dislocated both of my shoulders at the same time. Since then I have dislocated them a few times every year. I knew I needed to get this surgery. It was mandatory,” says Kilian.
“I am an outdoor person. I don’t want to be stuck inside, but I knew I needed to stay one or two months indoors. That was hard, but I was mentally prepared for that.”
Watch the video and see the Kilian copes with the slow recovery process of two operated shoulders at once.
We miss you, Ueli
Ueli, may your spirit forever guard others who live their dreams in the mountains. We miss you – and your broad smile.
Who climbs the most? Suunto World Vertical Week 2018 big data is here
WHICH COUNTRY CLIMBS THE MOST?
No big surprises here. The Austrians took the top spot again by a clear margin: on average they climbed almost a hundred meters higher than any other nation. Congratulations!
Also Switzerland was once again very strong: they have placed in the top three in the World Vertical Week ranking every year.
Overall the top four was dominated by people living in countries with the Alps. The popularity of ski touring, once again the activity with the most average ascent, surely contributes to these countries’ ranking.
Which country climbs the most? (average ascent per activity, top 20 countries)
Austria 472 m
Switzerland 375 m
Italy 360 m
Slovenia 338 m
Slovakia 281 m
Spain 263 m
Norway 255 m
France 250 m
Portugal 229 m
Germany 222 m
The Czech Republic 210 m
Mexico 189 m
South Africa 177 m
Singapore 176 m
Canada 170 m
New Zealand 169 m
The United States 167 m
Hungary 161 m
Republic of Korea 151 m
Sweden 150 m
BUT WHAT ABOUT THE DIFFERENT ACTIVITIES? WHO CLIMBS THE MOST?
We tracked all human-powered outdoor sports and looked at eight of them more closely: running, trail running, trekking, mountaineering, cycling, mountain biking, ski touring and cross-country skiing. A special shout-out goes to Japan and Italy: they both were on top in two different activity rankings. Italy even managed to get six top fives out of eight possible ones.
Skiers climbed away from the others also this year with the highest average ascent per activity (867 m). Also the number two, mountaineering with 688 m on average, kept its spot. Trail running (380 m) defended its third spot even though the trail runners didn’t reach the 400-meter mark this year.
To keep the playing field level, we were only comparing averages. A cumulative number of ascent meters per country or activity would not have made sense as the population and number of Suunto members varies from nation to nation.
YOU DON’T NEED MOUNTAINS AT HOME TO ENJOY BIG ASCENTS
The biggest surprise this year was the winner in ski touring category: the skiers from the Netherlands toured the biggest average ascents! It seems you don’t need mountains to enjoy big ascents. The highest point of their country rises only to 322 meters.
However, it is hard to believe that the Dutch would have collected all that vert back at home. One explanation for their success is that they didn’t actually tour at home, but had mostly traveled on a holiday to bigger hills and had had time to really record some vert. The same must be partly true to Great Britain that took the second spot in the ski touring ranking.
Countries like Switzerland, Austria, Italy and France had tens of times more ski touring activities during the week than the Dutch or the Brits but their averages were still lower. It seems that it is hard to beat someone enjoying a holiday even if you have mountains in your backyard. More dawn patrols and headlamp tours will be needed for the locals if they wish to beat their guests next year!
This analysis is not meant to take anything away from the Dutch and the Brits. There seems to be an active ski touring community in both countries that know that you need to go out during the World Vertical Week! Good job!
Ski touring (average 867 m)
The Netherlands 1160 m
Great Britain 1130 m
Switzerland 996 m
Spain 953 m
Italy 951 m
JAPANESE ON TOP IN MOUNTAINEERING
Japanese mountaineers recorded the highest average ascents during the week-long event. They added about 150 meters to their last year’s average and went from fifth to first. Well done!
Mountaineering (average 688 m)
Japan 846 m
Switzerland 799 m
Italy 765 m
Austria 746 m
France 743 m
ASIA DOMINATED TRAIL RUNNING DURING THE WORLD VERTICAL WEEK
It has been clear every year that Asia is strong in trail running and the same trend continues also this time around: The crown for the most average trail running ascent goes to Japan! That’s a strong performance considering the Japanese were number one also in mountaineering. Top spots in mountaineering and trail running, activities with the second and the third biggest average ascents, is an excellent demonstration that the Japanese are really strong in the uphill.
Winter in the mountainous regions in Europe and North America may limit the trail running ascents but never the less the Japanese and Chinese runners were very strong.
Trail running (average 380 m)
Japan 731 m
China 653 m
Portugal 547 m
Italy 523 m
Spain 508 m
Mountain biking (average 323 m)
Italy 482 m
Spain 479 m
South Africa 382 m
New Zealand 378 m
Brazil 377 m
Trekking (average 315 m)
Italy 436 m
Austria 426 m
France 357 m
Spain 354 m
USA 246 m
Cycling (average 214 m)
Spain 411 m
Italy 363 m
South Africa 328 m
France 301 m
Austria 264 m
Cross-country skiing (average 199 m)
The Czech Republic 374 m
France 316 m
Norway 259 m
Austria 219 m
Sweden 213 m
Running (average 103 m)
Slovenia 192 m
Norway 151 m
Switzerland 146 m
Croatia 142 m
Portugal 139 m
READ ALSO: THREE INSPIRING STORIES FROM SUUNTO WORLD VERTICAL WEEK
Congratulations to the Suunto Summit 2018 selections!
The 2018 Suunto Summiteers are:
Aniol, Spain
Daniel, Switzerland / Spain
Dmytro, Ukraine
Julia, Finland
Leonardo, Italy
Maggie, UK
Patrick, France
Patrik, Slovakia
Sherry, USA
Tara, USA
Teoh, Malaysia
Valentin, Romania
Verónica, Ecuador
(All participants have been individually contacted by Suunto.)
Welcome to #suuntosummit, everyone!
***** 5 February 2018 *****
Suunto Summit 2018
Do you want to be a part of a weekend full of trail running in the Finnish forest, workshops on Suunto products, and a little sauna too? If you can get to Helsinki for 4-6.5, we’ll do the rest!If this sounds like your kind of weekend, fill in the application below and tell us why you’re passionate about sports and Suunto, and share your story with #suuntosummit
Applications are due by 22.2.2018. (Amer Sports employees are not eligible for this Suunto Summit)
APPLY NOW
Here's what the Summit looks like in action!
In 2017 we hosted an inspiring group of 16 Suunto fans from around the world for a weekend of sharing experiences – and some muddy Finnish trails.
Summit team gearing up for the start of the trail race
Serene moment for Sante in the forest
Ready for orienteering?
Summiteers celebrating at the finish of Bodom Trail
All images by Philipp Reiter
Three inspiring stories from Suunto World Vertical Week 2018
Kat Schjei, California, USA
Feeling inspired by @suunto #verticalweek ; in the last seven days I have climbed over 5,000 feet either wearing this adventurous toddler, or pushing him in the stroller. It isn't easy, but I thrive on the challenge and seek more adventures with my sidekick every day. 🗻 #verticalweek #noexcuses #motherrunner #BAMR #BAMRbassador #runitfast #irunhesleeps #saltymountainmamas #getsalty #trailrunner #ultrarunners #trailchix #lasthorse #r4twc #running4thosewhocant #nomeatathlete #ultrarunner
A post shared by Kat Schjei (@smushtush) on Mar 1, 2018 at 6:15pm PST
“I live in Southern California but have lived all over the US. I'm a mom of three small kids and work as a nurse at the children's hospital, but that doesn't stop me from exploring and climbing as much as possible.
I'm currently training for my fourth 100-mile race, the Tahoe Rim Trail 100, which is located on some of my favorite peaks to climb. My Vertical Week was fun! I strapped my youngest son on my back and we climbed around 1500 feet a day, which is a crazy hard strength workout with his added weight. He loves taking in the sights as much as I do, and I know this is great race training because the added weight feels like double the distance.
I'm very much an advocate for getting kids outside; my three have learned to fall in love with the beauty that is rewarded when you put effort into a steep climb. I live my life to lead them and other families by example.”
Anna Persson, Norway
Added 4000m to my vertical weekend today! It felt like 1000 😁 #verticalweek #timetoplay #romsdalen #uterauma #suunto 's #week #mountains #outdoorlife #training #sun #winter
A post shared by Anna Persson (@anna_persson_) on Mar 2, 2018 at 11:23am PST
“I came to Norway 12 years ago. A summer job made me come here and nature has kept me here. The nature of Rauma in Romsdalen, Norway is spectacular with its many high and steep mountains by the sea. The mountains are in my backyard so I can walk to them from my front door.
My favorite training mountain in winter time is 1439-meter-high Kyrkjetaket – and the mountains around it. I often climb it two or three times before I go to work in the afternoon. The same mountain feels different every day. Snow and weather conditions may vary from day to day but when I`m at the top, it’s always the same; magical, wonderful feeling of freedom.
My #verticalweek was pretty hectic because of work. I also caught a cold. Luckily the snow and weather conditions were perfect this week so it was easy for me to do some vertical meters every day.”
Hannes Gehring, Colorado, USA
It’s been nearly 7 months since I’ve raced. Following my last race I found myself fighting demons, questioning and challenging my dreams and pursuits in ultra-running. I ballooned from a race weight of 168 to 206 lbs by mid December. It has been snail-crawl back to fitness but my focus has never been more deliberate. Yesterday’s 24 miles and 7,000 feet of climbing capped the week at 100 miles and 20k of vertical gain and felt like an unleashing of a few months worth of frustration, angst, and doubt. Sometimes following your passion, your crazy, and your heart is the only way to dig out of that hole you’re in. I’ve been digging for a few months. I’m back and there’s a fire 🔥🔥🔥coursing through my veins. (📷 Yesterday circa my 41,288th step 📸captured here by ninja photographer @itsmarincita) #uphillswagger
A post shared by Hannes Gehring (@uphillswagger) on Mar 5, 2018 at 10:46am PST
“Last March I decided to pursue ultra-running full time and moved into my truck with my two rescue dogs. They are the reason I found mountains; once I had rescued my first dog he led me to trails and helped me find my passion in mountain running.
Suunto's Vertical week went great for me. I was fortunate enough to climb over 20,000 vertical feet and cover over 100 miles, including a summit of the 14,035' Mt. Sherman here in Colorado.
I think any climb that gains 4,000 feet or more feels like a really burly climb. Typically, for my big days I aim for over 10,000 feet of uphill climbing. The steeper the better as far as I am concerned!
Ultra-running is my biggest passion (other than my dogs). So, my biggest motivation when a climb gets tough is that I want to do this professionally at the highest level. It keeps me humble and hungry grinding up a steep trail, knowing my dreams are lofty, but attainable – if I just keep pushing up that hill. Plus, my dogs make every climb look like it's a cake walk and that's a humbling motivator as well!”
Congratulations, Kat, Anna and Hannes! Your new Suunto Spartan Sport Wrist HR Baro watches are on their way to you.
And a big thank you to everyone who participated in Suunto World Vertical Week and shared photos and stories. Happy adventures to you all – both in the ups and downs!
LEARN MORE ABOUT SUUNTO WORLD VERTICAL WEEK 2018