Suunto Blog

Kilian’s Everest climb from Base Camp to the summit

Kilian’s Everest climb from Base Camp to the summit

 We caught up with Kilian as soon as he returned to Europe and talked a bit about his two Everest summits. “It was really interesting to see the Himalayas and Everest as the mountains in the Alps. In the Base Camp I packed all the gear I needed, a backpack of about seven kilos, and started running towards the night and then kept moving all the night and during the day on the ridge. When I was on the summit it was night again. It was a really good feeling to be on the summit of the world alone,” Kilian says.   Watch a Suunto Movie of Kilian’s amazingly fast ascent from Base Camp to the summit Kilian started the climb at the Base Camp at the ancient Rongbuk monastery at 5.100m. The climb began well but Kilian was hampered by stomach problems from 7.500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops. “I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down [to Advanced Base Camp] I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough,” he explained. And Kilian did. Only six days later he summited Everest from the Advanced Base Camp (6.400m). The weather was worse than during his first climb, very windy and snowing at the top. However, the conditions improved throughout the night and he returned to the camp 28 hours 30 minutes after leaving. “I was feeling a little tired from the first climb but it was good to know that it is possible to climb these big mountains on consecutive days, not only as one month projects with one summit per month. It is possible to do many activities in the big mountains. It was really windy and it was snowing on the summit but it was another incredible moment,” Kilian says. The two ascents are part of Kilian’s Summits of My Life project, which has taken him to some of the most iconic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua). He tried to ascend Everest already in 2016 but then poor weather conditions forced him to abandon his climb.  Kilian was accompanied on this Everest expedition by mountain guide and cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.
SuuntoClimbJune 06 2017

Kilian Jornet summits Everest twice in a week

“I’m so happy to have made the summit again! Today I felt good although it was really windy so it was hard to move fast. I think summiting Everest twice in one week without oxygen opens up a new realm of possibilities in alpinism and I’m really happy to have done it,” Kilian said after returning to the mountain’s Advanced Base Camp. Jornet had already reached the summit on May 22, but stomach cramps had prevented him from completing his route as planned. Jornet reached the summit via the North Face of Everest on May 27 at 9pm. He had left the Advanced Base Camp at 6.400m at 2am. He climbed to the summit on the ‘normal’ route passing the three high altitude camps used by climbers attempting the world’s highest mountain, a climb which takes on average four days. The climb to the summit was slow but continuous. The wind was the main obstacle Jornet had to overcome, on an extremely windy Himalayan day. Weather conditions improved throughout the night in the latter part of the route and he returned to Advanced Base Camp 28 hours 30 minutes after leaving. With this ascent Jornet repeats the feat of reaching the world’s highest point after having climbed to the summit only six days earlier. On the previous climb, he reached the summit in 26 hours, but he started that one lower down, at the Base Camp at the ancient Rongbuk monastery at 5.100m. The first climb had begun well but he was hampered by stomach problems from 7.500m, which slowed him down considerably and forced him to make repeated stops.   “I didn’t feel great and was moving very slowly. I had to stop every few metres with cramps and vomiting. But I felt ok with the altitude and decided to continue. When I got back down I thought I would like to try another attempt if I felt well enough,” he explained.    The two ascents are part of Kilian’s Summits of My Life project, which has taken Kilian to some of the most iconic mountains across the globe setting records for fastest known ascents. He began in the Mont Blanc range in 2012 and has since climbed in Europe (Mont Blanc & Matterhorn), in North America (Denali) and in South America (Aconcagua). He tried to ascend Everest already in 2016 but then poor weather conditions forced him to abandon his climb. Jornet was accompanied on this Everest expedition by mountain guide and cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset.
SuuntoClimbMay 29 2017
Ueli Steck in memoriam

Ueli Steck in memoriam

Ueli Steck, our long-time friend and ambassador, died in a climbing accident in the Himalayas on April 30. Ueli was not just an exceptional athlete and explorer. His humble attitude and persistence to realize his dreams was an inspiration to many – us included. Ueli Steck, 4.10.1976–30.4.2017 We were privileged to be by Ueli’s side since 2005. We saw him grow from a speed climber in the Alps to one of the best mountaineers of his time and an exceptional endurance athlete. Ever since Ueli’s 2008 record-breaking solo speed ascent of the north face of the Eiger Ueli Steck was regarded as one of climbing’s most spectacular talents. In 2013 he was in the limelight after making an incredibly bold solo ascent of the south face of Annapurna (8,091 m) in 28 hours – a new record. The ascent won him the Piolet d’Or, one of climbing’s most prestigious awards. “I was at the limits of my physical and mental ability. To go to such limits changes your consciousness,” Ueli said after the expedition. Climbers regard it as one of the most significant climbs in the Himalayas in a generation. Ueli did not do things the traditional way. He wanted to climb light to be able to move fast. To him fast meant less time spent at altitude which increased safety. But Ueli was also a purist. “It’s out of the question for me to use bottled oxygen,” he said. “I either make the summit without it or I turn back, go home and train more.” And train he did. He was preparing for his climbs like an Olympic endurance athlete. Climbing was just one part of getting faster, being better. In fact, Ueli really fell in love with trail running and believed endurance training could be the best way for him to become even better as a mountaineer: the gains he could get by training climbing were marginal compared to the gains he could get by being in the best possible shape. When preparing for his Everest Lhotse Traverse Ueli travelled to Khumbu Valley for high-altitude training this February. He wanted to spend time and train in high altitude to be ready for his big Himalayan challenge this spring. And he was ready. We have never seen Ueli as confident and relaxed as he was before his travel to Everest in April. He felt that he was in the shape of his life and was really looking forward to the climbs in the highest mountains of the world. “Working with Ueli all these years has been an inspiration; his way to see the sport, his pure way to approach the mountains and his determination in his projects pushed also us to do things better. Our long talks were filled with energy and inspiration. We have not only lost an athlete, but a friend who will always be remembered,” says Joan Sola, sport and community manager at Suunto. It was in the mountains that Ueli felt most at home. To him the north face of Eiger was as casual as a trail in the local park is for us. That is where he felt most at home. But no matter what the route or the mountain, Steck’s inspiration remained the same. “It’s the challenge of moving on in life,” he says. “I always want to try something I have not done before.” And that attitude of moving forward, of making progress, is what inspired us the most in Ueli. He showed us all that dreams can come true with determination and hard work. Ueli, may your spirit forever guard others who live their dreams on the mountains. We will miss you – and your broad smile.
SuuntoClimbMay 10 2017
EMELIE TRAVELS TO TIBET TO CLIMB HIGHER THAN EVER BEFORE

EMELIE TRAVELS TO TIBET TO CLIMB HIGHER THAN EVER BEFORE

Emelie Forsberg is travelling to Cho Oyu together with Kilian Jornet. After considering various options the couple chose this mountain that has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult 8000-meter peaks in the Himalayan range and that is reasonably accessible from the base camp. Kilian will use Cho Oyu as valuable preparation for climbing Everest. He will be traveling directly to the highest mountain on Earth after Cho Oyu. Emelie, how are you feeling before attempting to climb your first 8000-meter peak? I´m super exited and so motivated to give my all. I know it´s not sure at all that I can reach the summit, but the adventure and the journey there will be very interesting. How did you prepare for this project? Did you train differently than you would otherwise at this time of the year? We did sleep in an altitude tent, and I was not fresh after that so I couldn’t train the same as I normally do. I tried to do that in December and I was so tired after hard trainings. So I did a little longer days instead which can be good for the summit attempt. What do you like about mountaineering? I think mountaineering is just the step after skiing and running, when we come to more technical terrain, that’s when the mountaineering starts! I like it because it´s like the continuation of skiing and running, we need to be able to climb mountains to get ourselves there. I like the focus I need and that it´s so much more I need to learn. Every time I get more comfortable in mountaineering there are higher levels to go, so it never ends! How do you like Tibet? Never been there. It will be a new experience. What’s the highest you have been so far? ”Only” 6600 meters! How do you adapt to altitude? It can be different from time to time, but I have never felt really bad in altitude. But over 7500m will be very different, I think. What will the biggest challenges be for you? The altitude for sure, and to be moving for over 20 hours. What are the conditions like on Cho Oyu currently? Normally in the beginning of May it´s pretty good conditions; not too icy, not too much snow, and pretty stable weather. What’s the goal of this project? For sure it would be a success if I can go to the summit, but everything is an experience that leads us somewhere.
SuuntoClimbApril 26 2017
One trip to the Himalayas, two challenges

One trip to the Himalayas, two challenges

After taking part in the Mezzalama on Saturday (a skimo race where Kilian finished second together with Marti Werner and Martin Anthamatten) there was no time to relax: on Sunday he boarded a plane en route to the Himalayas, where he expects to spend the next few weeks on two very different climbing projects. First stop: Cho Oyu During the first part of his trip Kilian Jornet will attempt to climb Cho Oyu (8,201m), the world’s sixth highest mountain. He will be accompanied by his companion Emelie Forsberg. Kilian and Emelie looked for a peak that would be reasonably accessible from base camp. After considering various options they chose this mountain which has a reputation as one of the least technically difficult in the Himalayan range. “It will be interesting to see how we feel as we will have to acclimatize very quickly. We’ve been preparing this expedition for weeks but we won’t know how our bodies will react until we get there. It will be an interesting experience and Emelie’s first 8,000m and I want to be there to accompany her. As for me, it will be good preparation for Everest because I’ll be better acclimatised when I get there,” Kilian says. The pair will be on Cho Oyu for two weeks before Kilian prepares himself for the second part of the trip. Everest, the remaining giant In mid-May Kilian will travel to Tíbet to reach the monastery at Rongbuk, at 5,000m, the starting point for the Everest expedition (8.848m). This time the team is even smaller and only the cameraman Sébastien Montaz-Rosset will accompany him. Kilian’s objective is to conquer the world’s highest mountain and complete his personal project, Summits of My Life. Over the past six years Kilian has travelled around the world setting climbing records on the world’s most iconic mountains. He began on Mont Blanc in 2012 and since then has climbed mountains in Europe (Mont Blanc and Cervino), North America (Denali) and South America (Aconcagua). Now, to complete the project, for the second time he will attempt the ascent of Everest after having to postpone the 2016 attempt due to bad weather conditions. The team planned to travel to the Himalayas in autumn but, unable to obtain permits, decided to bring it forward to spring. “This year will be different from 2016 as there will be more people in the base camp while last year we were alone. The reason for wanting to try it in August-September is the temperatures are a little warmer and there is less risk of freezing. In spite of everything, the knowledge we acquired last year will prove vital in this expedition,” Kilian explains. As they did last year, the Summits of My Life team will try to reach the summit of Everest via the north face. The north face is the least well known, as most commercial expeditions go via the south side. Kilian still doesn’t know what route he will take as it will depend on the weather conditions. The idea is to attempt it via either the Norton or the Hornbein corridors. During the first few days the team will establish the advanced base camp (ABC) at 6,300m. From there they will make several excursions to acclimatise and reconnoitre the terrain before heading down to the starting point. This is the basic principle of Summits of My Life: ascending from the last inhabited place and returning to it once the summit has been reached. On this occasion the point of departure will be the Rongbuk monastery at 5,000m. Kilian knows that on Everest the most important things to bear in mind are the altitude and the weather conditions: “There are many factors in play that will depend on how I feel at altitude and the prevailing conditions during the expedition. That’s where we will take the decisions, but knowing that we want to do it as we have always done - light and quick. There are people who think it’s madness but for me the mountain is a space where everyone should be free to do what they think they can do. I like to travel light so I can be quick. In this way, we spend less time at altitude and suffer less fatigue, although we are aware that it makes the expedition more risky. However, weighing everything up, this is the way we’ve chosen and that we will attempt again on Everest.” Kilian Jornet expects to spend a month on Everest in order to make the attempt before returning to Europe. Our Everest, a global campaign The expedition can be followed using the hashtag #OurEverest. The idea is to bring together the community of followers who have backed the project since the beginning and who have made the expedition to Everest possible. “We began this challenge together five years ago and with our values and our approach to the mountain we’ve got to this point. Although we don’t know what will happen, I’m clear about one thing: it’s not my Everest, but ours, everyone who has in one way or another contributed to making this project a reality,” says Kilian. Stay tuned for updates! You can learn more about the project at summitsofmylife.com
SuuntoClimbApril 24 2017
World Vertical Week 2017 Big Data: See who stands on the top!

World Vertical Week 2017 Big Data: See who stands on the top!

The World Vertical Week is about collecting vertical meters for your country and your sport. All moves in all human-powered outdoor sports count. To keep the playing field level, we were only comparing averages. A cumulative number of ascent meters per country would not have made sense as the population and number of Suunto App users varies.  Skiers are still quite clearly the queens and kings of the hill with 849 meters of ascent in average. The mountaineers climbed on the second spot with 636 meters and the trail runners rounded out the top three with their 400 ascent meters. Actually the order of the activities remained almost identical compared to 2016: the only difference was that mountain bikers passed the snowshoers in the listings. Average ascents in various activities Ski touring 849m Mountaineering 636m Trail running 400m Mountain biking 362m Snow shoeing 316m Trekking 293m Cycling 236m Cross country skiing 222m Running 104m   SKI TOURING IS NUMBER ONE – BUT WHO SKIS THE MOST? Now that we know that ski touring is the sport with the biggest average ascents, it is time to dig deeper. The snowy winter in the Pyrenees has boosted the skiing spirits of the Spanish and they were the only athletes to cross the thousand vertical meter mark – in any country and any activity. Felicitaciones, españoles! Top 10 countries in ski touring Spain 1034m Switzerland 938m Slovakia 936m Germany 927m Andorra 916m Italy 909m USA 883m Austria 877m Poland 874m France 858m   A SLIGHT SURPRISE IN MOUNTAINEERING Mountaineering was second in the activity listings. But the leading nation within that activity was a slight surprise: United Kingdom surely has a long mountaineering tradition, but only a few – at least here in the Suunto office – would have bet their money for the island nation. The UK was not among the top mountaineering nations last year, but still they took the first place with 836 meters in 2017. Top 10 countries in mountaineering United Kingdom 836m Italy 772m Switzerland 749m Germany 713m Japan 685m France 683m Austria 655m Taiwan 620m USA 600m South Korea 575m   ASIAN COUNTRIES DOMINATED TRAIL RUNNING It was clear already last year that China, Hong Kong and Japan are strong in the trail running segment. This year they occupied the top three with excellent performances and clear margins. Maybe having the Vertical Week in winter limits the possibilities for trail running in mountainous areas in Europe and North-America but still the Asian performance was impressive. Great climbing, China, Hong Kong and Japan! Top 10 countries in trail running China 887m Hong Kong 808m Japan 711m Italy 572m Portugal 540m Spain 524m United Kingdom 509m Slovenia 469m Greece 468m Austria 437m   CLOSE MARGINS IN COUNTRY COMPARISONS We also analysed the data for all human powered outdoor sports and compared the average ascents between countries. The margins were tight, but still there was one above the rest: The Austrians ascended on average more than any other nation, 320 meters per every workout tracked during the Vertical Week. Top 10 countries overall Austria 320m Italy 298m Switzerland 287m Spain 261m Slovenia 261m Portugal 258m Hong Kong 247m France 240m Norway 235m Slovakia 218m   TOP COUNTRIES IN OTHER ACTIVITIES And to give you even more to speculate here are the top countries in the other activities mentioned above.   Top 10 countries in mountain biking Italy 515m Slovenia 479m Spain 471m United Kingdom 465m Austria 461m Switzerland 443m South Africa 416m France 370m Germany 367m Poland 366m   Top 10 countries in snow shoeing Italy 564m Andorra 530m Austria 510m Germany 429m France 424m Switzerland 345m USA 228m Spain 213m Canada 178m Finland 163m   Top 10 countries in trekking France 406m Italy 397m Austria 353m Poland 322m Spain 307m USA 274m Germany 271m Norway 243m United Kingdom 229m China 141m   Top 10 countries in cycling Spain 405m Italy 403m South Africa 393m Colombia 392m Portugal 355m Cyprus 332m Switzerland 328m Czech Republic 308m France 298m Austria 294m   Top 10 countries in cross country skiing Czech Republic 391m France 312m Poland 286m Norway 270m Sweden 266m Italy 260m Austria 252m Canada 225m USA 222m Germany 221m   Top 10 countries in running Portugal 157m Hong Kong 151m Slovenia 148m Switzerland 136m France 128m Spain 127m Norway 126m New Zealand 124m USA 117m Czech Republic 115m   Main image © Patitucci Photo
SuuntoClimb,SuuntoRide,SuuntoRun,SuuntoSkiMarch 10 2017